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Hello Guys,

 

I currently own the ES-600 and it is a brilliant piece of kit, however at the moment I seem to be faced with a bit of a problem, I wonder has anyone on this site actually made a repair/walkthrough guide to assist with identifying problems in relation to the ES-600 electric skateboard, at the moment the problem I am having is that when the board was working fine I was coming down a big hill, and had to brake pretty quickly as I was turning the corner, the board made a funny grinding noise, and seemed to be struggling to start up again, I turned it off, and also the controller, and then turned both back on, but standing on the board and slowly pulling the gun controller to myself, the board was a making a juddering noise, and rather it feels like the drive belt is slipping. I called Andrew at electro-skate and he also suggested it sounds like the belt is slipping, I have ordered a new drive wheel and a new drive belt, and I shall fit them when they get here and I am hoping that this will solve the problem. Has anyone else suffered this problem, regards SS

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Hi SilverSony,

 

sounds like the belt lost some "teeths", I've read about this in the german part of the forum as well.

 

If you brake too hard, the belt might "slip" and basically grind the teeths down or break them off. Depends on the right belt tension alot, as well - if it is too tight, it might break off the teeths while if it is too lose it might grind itself down from skipping the wheels counterpart to the teeths.

 

Regards,

 

Wolf

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Hi SilverSony,

 

sounds like the belt lost some "teeths", I've read about this in the german part of the forum as well.

 

If you brake too hard, the belt might "slip" and basically grind the teeths down or break them off. Depends on the right belt tension alot, as well - if it is too tight, it might break off the teeths while if it is too lose it might grind itself down from skipping the wheels counterpart to the teeths.

 

Regards,

 

Wolf

 

Hi Wolf,

 

I thank you for your detailed response, and yes that sounds correct, however in inspecting the actual rubber drive belt, I could not see any physical damage to the rubber teeth, the only thing I did notice when this actually occured the other day was some small bits of metal stuck into the belt, I obviously pulled them out of the belt. Now exactly sure why this has happened, but as you stated if you brake too hard, things like may occur????

Regards SS

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Hi SilverSony,

 

could be that the belt itself remained intact, but the aluminium/magnesium(?) belt wheels were grinded down..? Can you see any damage to those?

 

If I remember correctly, the ES 600 has an plastic belt wheel on the driving wheel itself, so I guess this might've grinded down (the belt is usually much stronger than plastic).

 

The belt is some reinforced (maybe glassfiber?) belt so it shouldnt get ruined "that quick", but with the wrong belt tension setting it wears faster or might ruin itself or the belt wheel(s) over time (thats not a problem from ES, its in all machines working with those belts, they all wear down depending on the usage and power transmitted over it)..

 

The "braking" is some pretty powerful thing, heavy load for the belt, imagine your weight / the speed and one belt which tries to slower this movement energy down.

 

On the ES 800 there's a switch (better: 2) on the controller board itself (microswitch, very small), the right switch sets the brake "harder" and "softer" if I remember correctly, it was a while ago that I tested it on my ES 800.

 

Aside from this I suggest you, not to brake too hard, because the brake power is adjusted with the actual speed - means: If you drive faster, the brake will brake harder (not instant) while, if the board is not moving it will brake nearly zero. This is the "anti blocking system", so you don't fall from the board because of a instantbrake.

 

Regards,

 

Wolf

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Hi SilverSony,

 

could be that the belt itself remained intact, but the aluminium/magnesium(?) belt wheels were grinded down..? Can you see any damage to those?

 

If I remember correctly, the ES 600 has an plastic belt wheel on the driving wheel itself, so I guess this might've grinded down (the belt is usually much stronger than plastic).

 

The belt is some reinforced (maybe glassfiber?) belt so it shouldnt get ruined "that quick", but with the wrong belt tension setting it wears faster or might ruin itself or the belt wheel(s) over time (thats not a problem from ES, its in all machines working with those belts, they all wear down depending on the usage and power transmitted over it)..

 

The "braking" is some pretty powerful thing, heavy load for the belt, imagine your weight / the speed and one belt which tries to slower this movement energy down.

 

On the ES 800 there's a switch (better: 2) on the controller board itself (microswitch, very small), the right switch sets the brake "harder" and "softer" if I remember correctly, it was a while ago that I tested it on my ES 800.

 

Aside from this I suggest you, not to brake too hard, because the brake power is adjusted with the actual speed - means: If you drive faster, the brake will brake harder (not instant) while, if the board is not moving it will brake nearly zero. This is the "anti blocking system", so you don't fall from the board because of a instantbrake.

 

Regards,

 

Wolf

 

Hi Wolf,

 

Yet another detailed explanation, I understand where you are coming from, as I stated in the last post, it did brake quite hard trying to achieve a good turn around the corner so to speak, so I amy have caused that to happen. I have just checked the small cog on the motor itself and there appears to be no physical damage to the cog itself, and also on the ES-600 Sport, there is no way that I know of where you can regulate the brake ie hard or soft, what I tend to do is, if in the instance I am going down a big hill after picking up speed I tend to pull the glock gun controller towards me in little bursts and this begins to slow me down quite quickly without causing any juddery movements, if you know what I mean, that is how I maintain stability with the braking system on the board.

 

By the way the drive belts for the ES-Sport (600) are rubber?

GOPR3176.thumb.jpg.659f50f00b75e4fd87530f54df651a4b.jpg

GOPR3178.thumb.jpg.430eff3de3475a2956b024061e764050.jpg

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Hi SilverSony,

 

about the material: The belts I have for my ES 800 seem to be from reinforced rubber of some sort. If I look on the belts from the side (the cut direction basically) then I see some reinforcement strings in the material, as well as if you look on the "teeths" on the inside. Usually for belts of this sort they use glassfiber to reinforce them against snapping or stretching from torque.

 

I am not sure what the belts of the ES 600 are made from but like I said, I don't think "pure rubber" without reinforcement could withstand those torque and powers.. they would stretch permanently and fail.

 

About the micro switches: They are not explained, documented or "known" for usual customers. But one of the both (if I remember correctly, the right one) changes the behavior on braking (alot), it brakes either much harder or much softer overall. The other one seem to have to do something with the timings (on braking/boost), but I didn't check this enough yet.

 

The ES 800 might use the same controller board as the ES 600, if thats the case, you can easily find the microswitches if you unscrew the controller case/box from the deck.

 

But I don't know how if the warranty will void if you change the setting, I just know from my and Beetles board, that the brake setting was different on our controller boards right after delivering (even as the controller version was the same), so it might help some people to change the braking power (not everyone likes the standard setting).

 

I tested the behaviour with my ES 800 laying on the deck while speeding the drive wheel up and brake, at higher speeds it was easy to see that one setting made the brake process much faster (I use kart wheels so they have quite a weight, means its easy to see if they brake faster). At very low speed the difference was neglectable.

 

The wheel/cog on the motor side should be aluminium or magnesium on the ES 600 too, I don't think this cog will wear down quickly.

 

Might be a different story with the drive wheel cog - on the ES 800 its made from metal, too (and ways bigger), while on the ES 600 it should be plastic?! Then it might wear down alot faster. Did you check that drive wheel cog for grinded down counter-"teeths"?

 

Regards,

 

Wolf

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Hi SilverSony,

 

about the material: The belts I have for my ES 800 seem to be from reinforced rubber of some sort. If I look on the belts from the side (the cut direction basically) then I see some reinforcement strings in the material, as well as if you look on the "teeths" on the inside. Usually for belts of this sort they use glassfiber to reinforce them against snapping or stretching from torque.

 

I am not sure what the belts of the ES 600 are made from but like I said, I don't think "pure rubber" without reinforcement could withstand those torque and powers.. they would stretch permanently and fail.

 

About the micro switches: They are not explained, documented or "known" for usual customers. But one of the both (if I remember correctly, the right one) changes the behavior on braking (alot), it brakes either much harder or much softer overall. The other one seem to have to do something with the timings (on braking/boost), but I didn't check this enough yet.

 

The ES 800 might use the same controller board as the ES 600, if thats the case, you can easily find the microswitches if you unscrew the controller case/box from the deck.

 

But I don't know how if the warranty will void if you change the setting, I just know from my and Beetles board, that the brake setting was different on our controller boards right after delivering (even as the controller version was the same), so it might help some people to change the braking power (not everyone likes the standard setting).

 

I tested the behaviour with my ES 800 laying on the deck while speeding the drive wheel up and brake, at higher speeds it was easy to see that one setting made the brake process much faster (I use kart wheels so they have quite a weight, means its easy to see if they brake faster). At very low speed the difference was neglectable.

 

The wheel/cog on the motor side should be aluminium or magnesium on the ES 600 too, I don't think this cog will wear down quickly.

 

Might be a different story with the drive wheel cog - on the ES 800 its made from metal, too (and ways bigger), while on the ES 600 it should be plastic?! Then it might wear down alot faster. Did you check that drive wheel cog for grinded down counter-"teeths"?

 

Regards,

 

Wolf

 

Hi Wolf,

 

Boy you sure know your stuff, you are right the cog wheel on the motor is Aluminium or magnesium, and I have checked it thoroughly I see no visible signs of damage to the cog on the motor. I have to be honest here, wolf, I am not an engineer or electrician of any sort, but I love electric skateboards, the sheer feel of riding them in fantastic and I love them as a mode of transport, but the high price should also mean that I should not have to know/learn electrics to keep my board working. I am thinking of buying the ES-800. I see that you own one of these boards, are they really that good, do you have any bad points to make about the new ES-800????

 

another point you make wolf, is regarding the micro switches, I do not have them on or should I say in my board. When I open up the battery compartment, I have the usual stuff, ie small circuit board to the front of the lithium battery, and the link wire with the green car fuse, and really that is about it. Of course there is the RED positive wire, and the BLACK negative wire.

 

I am uploading some more pictures of my board, for you to see. Let me know what you think, I also did a small video, that you could look at and tell me if you know what the noise is, or can you let me know what you think is wrong with my board, I would appreciate it wolf.

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GOPR3211.thumb.jpg.0bd60f11f40eaa0d1cc444b8e23f1b4d.jpg

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Hi SilverSony,

 

yea, its indeed true that you shouldnt need to know electrics to drive the board, but at the other end I don't think there's a board on the "customermarket" which has zero problems and all features..

 

You know, I own a ES 800 and I am rebuilding it completely, because no board I know of has all features I want (one example is waterproof exterior, another dual wheel drive, third.. ... you see? :devil: I'm a perfectionist, makes it pretty hard to make me happy with standard equipment..).

 

Still, the ES-Boards are basically the "best base" for my build due to brushless technic and some advantages (magnesium axis = light, kart wheels with a mod, ...).

 

About buying the ES 800 - like I said, no board has "absolutely zero disadvantages". The ES 800 is very nice, it works nice, but it is still not waterproof, still one wheel drive, it still will wear down (which board doesnt?) on the belt and such..

 

It's also pretty heavy (its a light offroad board, but compared to a "normal skateboard" or a small street e-board its pretty heavy), shouldn't wonder you on that size and with such big wheels.

 

If you drive on flat surfaces like streets, ways etc. I guess the ES 600 you've got is a better choice, because it is lighter, you stand not that high (better control), and so on..

 

If you want to drive alot offroad, on forests, offroadways and such, the ES 800 for sure is great there. But if you drive on flat "hard" surfaces like streets mostly, it has not really a advantage over the ES 600.

 

No, the micro switches I spoke about ain't in the battery case. ;) They are on the controller board.. in the smaller part connecting to the battery case. The part where on one side the motor is connected to, on the other side the battery case.

 

Inside there is a little controller board with a cooling plate. On this controller board are (on the new Mk3 ES 800 at least) two micro switches. :D

 

But it is a bit confusing, what's inside that little box, if you are not experienced in electronics. There should be 2 boards, one bigger, one smaller (with the power switch and LED on it) connected to it and the logic board side-mounted to the bigger one. And on the bigger one (flat) are those switches.

 

I'll watch the video in a second and tell you in another answer what I think about..

 

Regards,

 

Wolf

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Hi again,

 

just watched the video.

 

sounds a bit weird (the sound on startup), while the short time that I could see where the wheel was driving at full speed sounded pretty normal for me.

 

Did you dismount the wheel and the belt and test the motor, before?

 

I would do this, because it might reduce the amount of things where the noise can come from. If the "stuttering" sound is still there with just the motor driving, then I guess it might be the motor bearings that are defective or worn down.

 

But it sounds a bit like the belt is skipping over the cogs if you add alot of torque (like speeding up fast, braking fast). Can you hold the wheel with one hand and just move the trigger so far that you can still hold it? If it skips then, we know the problem is on the part of the cogs/belt.

 

Usually those small wheels are so light, that speeding them up and braking them shouldnt make the belt skip, if no load is on the board (they're spinning in the air). On a 1,5 kg+ kart wheel thats a different thing (it has so much weight, that the torque of high speed spinning is hard to brake, even without a driver on it) but those small wheels should be pretty light..

 

Regards,

 

Wolf

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Hello Wolf,

 

I have to ask how long have you been interested in e skateboards, I would like to have a simple idea just as yours, waterproof undercarriage and maybe dual drive wheel, and so on, however I am a simple man who just loves to ride the boards. You are very clever in your understanding of my board, and I am myself questioning things about my ES-600. I have just taken off the drive wheel and also the belt, to see if I could start the motor on it's own accord, but having turned on the board and then on the controller, I squeezed the trigger towards myself and there was nothing, so I used to screwdriver (very carefully) to spin the little cog on the motor itself and it began to spin by exerting a little pressure on the gun controller, and then I have realised that putting the belt back in place first, I realised that it does feel a little looser trying to fit it in, and then putting the drive in and putting on the locking nut, and then again trying to get the drive wheel moving properly without that loud noise, but to no avail. Just tried to restart the process again and what is happening is, that I am manually having to partly spin the drive wheel before the controller can initiate the process, and it is intermittent. It should be very responsive indeed.

 

 

Hi Wolf,

 

I am so impressed with some of your information and knowledge, that I have been thinking I should try some other things out myself to try and understand what is going on with my board. Firstly I have took off the drive wheel and also the belt, I then proceeded to take off the clamp/bracket that holds the motor to the rear axle. I have now the motor on its own coming from the back of the main control box, I have had the motor cog going on it's own and every little while I make the spinning stop and make the motor jump into the air slightly and then try the steps again, it would seem that by doing this, everything seems okay, the motor is fine, although at times, I have to spin the little cog to start it again, I am not sure if that means there is something wrong.??? What do you think Wolf?

Edited by SilverSony
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Hi hi,

 

I work with electric boards only since beginning of 2011, so not that long. ;) But I got some experience with electronics from my past life and work.

 

The problem you mentioned about the "stopped" motor which starts spinning after it is turned a bit is pretty normal for DC motors but a bit weird for AC/Brushless motors like you got.

 

Usually its the position where the motor has no contact to the brushes that transfer the power to the "spinning core". But the ES 600 not only should have a brushless motor, but a hall sensor on its end, too. This sensor gives the controller a feedback about the motors spinning/position, so it should be able to start from every position without a problem.

 

But I am not the creator of the components nor do I know how the controller works about the feedback, so it can be a normal thing, too. While driving the board outside this shouldnt affect you, because it is always "moving a bit" and so adjusting the position of the motor, so he should always start itself.

 

So you're saying that the motor itself doesn't do any (weird) noise, but if you put everything back the noise starts again? Humm.. this means that either the bearing in the wheel itself makes the problem or the transmittion with the 2 cogs and the belt. Not much more could've been the reason.

 

You mentioned, that you unscrewed the bracket box from the axis, what about this: Attach the bracket box again but don't screw it too tight, just very loose with 2 of the 4 screws.

 

Now add the wheel and belt and press against the bracket/box in the direction that the belt gets tightened to the cogs.

 

Now let the motor run and drive the wheel in the air while pushing the box with different strength, so you test the noise on multiple tight-levels of the belt.

 

Maybe there's some point, when the noise gets louder or even vanishes, might be that something you can't see from the side where you see the cogs has contact with the bracket/box?

 

Regards,

 

Wolf

 

Edit: What I don't hope: The "stopping" problem MIGHT have to do something with the motor windings or the power part of the controller, hard to describe but if your board uses a brushless motor (what I guess, I don't think there are ES 600 with DC-Motors?!) it has three phases basically, three "feeding" wires. If there's a problem with the controlling part of 1 or 2 of those wires, then in the position of this phase the motor will not react or react weird, because the magnetic field which is generated will not exist on all sides of the spinning part inside.

Edited by Wolf

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Hi hi,

 

I work with electric boards only since beginning of 2011, so not that long. ;) But I got some experience with electronics from my past life and work.

 

The problem you mentioned about the "stopped" motor which starts spinning after it is turned a bit is pretty normal for DC motors but a bit weird for AC/Brushless motors like you got.

 

Usually its the position where the motor has no contact to the brushes that transfer the power to the "spinning core". But the ES 600 not only should have a brushless motor, but a hall sensor on its end, too. This sensor gives the controller a feedback about the motors spinning/position, so it should be able to start from every position without a problem.

 

But I am not the creator of the components nor do I know how the controller works about the feedback, so it can be a normal thing, too. While driving the board outside this shouldnt affect you, because it is always "moving a bit" and so adjusting the position of the motor, so he should always start itself.

 

So you're saying that the motor itself doesn't do any (weird) noise, but if you put everything back the noise starts again? Humm.. this means that either the bearing in the wheel itself makes the problem or the transmittion with the 2 cogs and the belt. Not much more could've been the reason.

 

You mentioned, that you unscrewed the bracket box from the axis, what about this: Attach the bracket box again but don't screw it too tight, just very loose with 2 of the 4 screws.

 

Now add the wheel and belt and press against the bracket/box in the direction that the belt gets tightened to the cogs.

 

Now let the motor run and drive the wheel in the air while pushing the box with different strength, so you test the noise on multiple tight-levels of the belt.

 

Maybe there's some point, when the noise gets louder or even vanishes, might be that something you can't see from the side where you see the cogs has contact with the bracket/box?

 

Regards,

 

Wolf

 

Edit: What I don't hope: The "stopping" problem MIGHT have to do something with the motor windings or the power part of the controller, hard to describe but if your board uses a brushless motor (what I guess, I don't think there are ES 600 with DC-Motors?!) it has three phases basically, three "feeding" wires. If there's a problem with the controlling part of 1 or 2 of those wires, then in the position of this phase the motor will not react or react weird, because the magnetic field which is generated will not exist on all sides of the spinning part inside.

 

Hello Wolf,

 

Firstly, thanks for the detailed explanation, but on my board there is no way you can adjust the tightness of the actual drive belt, that I know of, the two cogs you mention are the drive wheel and the motor cog.

 

It seems to me like the whole noise/vibration issue happened when I came down that steep hill. I have tried so many different ways to identify the issue, but sometimes it is quite frustrating going backwards and forwards doing the same thing again and again. I love the board, but I also think like you the design and build of the components is rather tacky for the money involved with the ES-Sports (600).

 

I will try the steps you have mentioned, by putting only two screws into the bracket on the rear axle, and see if this does make any difference to the noise/issue. We can but try, have you made any designs/modifications for your perfect board???? That would be interesting to see.

 

I shall test some more things on the board.

 

 

ps There is no way that I know that the tension can be changed on the ES-Sport 600. It only goes in one way.???? Also is there a way to test the motor windings Wolf.

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Hello Wolf,

 

Quick update for you, I was just having a look at the drive wheel, and on close inspection I have realised that a few of the plastic teeth, have been torn away or come off on the drive wheel itself, and on the edge of the plastic cog there are quite a few rough parts, where the teeth are missing, this could be the explanation, I am awaiting a new drive wheel and belt, I am hoping that will solve the problem. I find it quite annoying that the board goes without no problems for some time, and then out of the blue things just happen and everything goes wrong. But always a learning curve. :peace:

 

I tried the steps that you told me about, but did not make any difference, so I put all the four allen screws back into the bracket of the rear axel.

 

Regards for now. SS

 

 

 

ps Do you only have the one board????? and would you recommend any other electric skateboard company??

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Hi SilverSony,

 

hmm.. the tightness of the belt should be adjustable over the motor and the axis mount of the bracket/box. At least on the ES 800 this is the way to adjust the distance of the cogs.

 

If you loose the motor / bracket mounting screws you should be able to customize the distance of the cogs a bit, not much but enough to reach a change in the belt tightness.

 

Be careful about the cog position, because if the cog is too near to the side of the gear box, it might grind the wall of the box down with the belt (contact).

 

About the modifications: Thats not as easy as one might think, unfortunately.. The waterproof system needs to have every electronic part built in a different, waterproof casing, in my case aluminium boxes. The cable exits, switches, LEDs and such need to be waterproof, also (and have to be mounted waterproof, else the water will flow in on that parts on a rainy day).

 

A second motor mount is not as easy, too.. with the motors used in the new ES 600/800 you have to develop a stable, reliable mounting system for the second motor, as well as an second drive wheel mount.

 

The earlier ES 800 had motors which were build inside of the wheels itself (the center basically was the motor). Those would've been easier to mount (on the ES 800) on both sides, but unfortunately they are ways too big for any smaller board like the ES 600, so the only way is a second external motor with a second drive wheel which develops some problems at realisation. Nothing impossible but for a reliable system not that easy as loosening a few screws and mount something different.

 

To test the windings electrical can be a problem, if you don't have the measuring equipment. The easiest way to test if there's a internal problem should be to loose the motor cables (which might need you to open/unmount the controller box, because they are plugs in the middle of the cables from motor/controller).

 

Then you leave all 3 motor cables (the thicker ones, not the sensor cables) on the table and turn the motor. It should turn easily without any skipping or hanging.

 

If you then cross 2 of the three power cables of the motor (shortcut them basically, without the controller attached) the turning should "brake" alot, making it harder to turn the motor cog manually. If you then cross 2 cables in all 3 possible combinations it shouldnt differ from the brake power. If you then cross all 3(!) cables (shortcut them) without the controller attached it should brake constantly even harder.

 

This way you can not see every problem with the motor but some easy problems can be revealed, even without further measurement equipment.

 

If you cross 2 of the 3 cables as a example and the motor is just as easy to turn as without them crossed then there's likely a problem within the motor. This all only counts, if you have a brushless motor, which means 3 wires to the motor itself and some else for the sensor (if theres one build in).

 

Regards,

 

Wolf

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Hi,

 

just saw that you posted a update (and I wrote my fingers wound.. lol :devil: ).

 

Yea, that will probably be the reason for the sound/torque problem. The plastic cog isn't as stable as the aluminium cog or the drive belt I guess, so it will wear down first.

 

Beetle here in the forum has changed its drive wheel cog against an aluminium version which he bought "pure" and modified it over a friend to fit the wheel.

 

He might be able to tell you where he bought it from and what steps are neccessary to fit it, that wheel will last alot longer then the plastic part.

 

I only have the ES 800 board but like I said I don't leave much original, its a complete conversion to something coming from my mind. Not as a mass production, just to realize my own ideas about a E-Board.

 

So I cannot suggest you any other board / manufacturer because I don't know their quality. I saw a MoBo 800 in real life which was very nice, too, but there is not much difference about the wear-down and problems with those boards.

 

Main difference is the technic, means brushed vs. brushless, LiFePO4 vs. Lead Acid and such. The outerior and driving itself isnt -that- different.

 

For me the ES-Boards and parts are choice #1 because I like the brushless technic and it makes the modification easier and better for me, but if one buys a board "just to drive it like it comes from the seller" then I cannot tell if one is "much better" than the other, I guess every board has some advantages and disadvantages and every board needs some checks and has some wear-down over time.. no exceptions. :D

 

Regards,

 

Wolf

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Hi,

 

just saw that you posted a update (and I wrote my fingers wound.. lol :devil: ).

 

Yea, that will probably be the reason for the sound/torque problem. The plastic cog isn't as stable as the aluminium cog or the drive belt I guess, so it will wear down first.

 

Beetle here in the forum has changed its drive wheel cog against an aluminium version which he bought "pure" and modified it over a friend to fit the wheel.

 

He might be able to tell you where he bought it from and what steps are neccessary to fit it, that wheel will last alot longer then the plastic part.

 

I only have the ES 800 board but like I said I don't leave much original, its a complete conversion to something coming from my mind. Not as a mass production, just to realize my own ideas about a E-Board.

 

So I cannot suggest you any other board / manufacturer because I don't know their quality. I saw a MoBo 800 in real life which was very nice, too, but there is not much difference about the wear-down and problems with those boards.

 

Main difference is the technic, means brushed vs. brushless, LiFePO4 vs. Lead Acid and such. The outerior and driving itself isnt -that- different.

 

For me the ES-Boards and parts are choice #1 because I like the brushless technic and it makes the modification easier and better for me, but if one buys a board "just to drive it like it comes from the seller" then I cannot tell if one is "much better" than the other, I guess every board has some advantages and disadvantages and every board needs some checks and has some wear-down over time.. no exceptions. :D

 

Regards,

 

Wolf

 

Hi Wolf,

 

The steps you mention at the front of your post, I may be able to make a small adjustment with the placing of the bracket to the back axel. You are truly very informative with your information and now thinking to the question that I asked about different modifications, I realise now that there is more to this idea than I first thought, but hey I am human and have to ask.

 

Also the Es-800 All track, is the new model and they may have updated it to allow the user (you) to make certain changes according to your preference. Regarding your belt tension and so on.

 

This is not the case with the ES-600, it is only a minimum slight movement than can be achieved with the placement of the bracket to the rear axel.

 

Could you have a word with beetle on my behalf or kindly ask him to drop me a line or message regarding the aluminium version of the drive wheel, I wonder wolf are other forum users accessing these posts. :peace:

 

 

I hate for waiting for things to be delivered by royal mail, I am so impatient.

 

I have emailed rokitscience (electric skateboard company) to aks if their wheels and so on will fit the ES-Sports, they can say yes/no simple

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Hi SilverSony,

 

sorry for my late answer, I am a bit busy those days (running in circles.. :devil: ).

 

The belt tension on the ES 800 is adjustable, but not that much, too (only as much as the screw holes allow the movement of the parts, mostly).

 

But usually the belt fits pretty neat, so even a slight move changes the tension alot. If I would move one side just one millimeter, the belt would've too much tension (or too less), so even small changes can affect alot. :D

 

Some users will read this but not answer, because as for me I'm german so I barely look in the english part of the forum (mostly only if there is a new answer awaiting..).

 

I'll ask Beetle to contact you or post a answer there.

 

I am not sure about the ES 600 wheels, but the (standard) ES 800/Mobo 800 and such wheels are interchangeable from what I've heard.

 

Regards,

 

Wolf

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Hi SilverSony,

 

sorry for my late answer, I am a bit busy those days (running in circles.. :devil: ).

 

The belt tension on the ES 800 is adjustable, but not that much, too (only as much as the screw holes allow the movement of the parts, mostly).

 

But usually the belt fits pretty neat, so even a slight move changes the tension alot. If I would move one side just one millimeter, the belt would've too much tension (or too less), so even small changes can affect alot. :D

 

Some users will read this but not answer, because as for me I'm german so I barely look in the english part of the forum (mostly only if there is a new answer awaiting..).

 

I'll ask Beetle to contact you or post a answer there.

 

I am not sure about the ES 600 wheels, but the (standard) ES 800/Mobo 800 and such wheels are interchangeable from what I've heard.

 

Regards,

 

Wolf

 

Hi Wolf,

 

Thanks for your reply, that is great news, my new drive wheel and belt have still not arrived as of yet, I received a reply from rokitscience regarding their semi track skateboard wheels and they believe that they will be compatible with my board, Apparently the they sell the wheels, and also if you buy them, they can each be used as a drive wheel, so you get four times as much use out of each wheel. However four of these semi wheels cost £91.00 gbp.

 

Could you please check the link and tell me what you think about these wheels Wolf, and if they are worth buying????? :thumbsup::thumbsup::thumbsup:

 

Wolf, below is a copy of the mail they sent back to me.

 

hi stephen

thanks for your enquiry

we have stock of semi-off road alloy wheels

please use link: http://www.rokitscience.co.uk/online_store/electric_skateboard_alloy_wheel_semioff_road.cfm

i believe they're compatable with elektro skate boards

they are made from a hard wearing tough solid rubber compound

a set of 4 includes a drive cog which can be removed & inserted into each individual wheel converting each one into a drive wheel, so a set of wheels lasts 4 times as long

hope this helps

kind rgs

abby.

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Hi, just checked your video you don't have the Mark 3 control box you have old C box the c box is the fault losing signal. :peace:

 

Hi Andrew12,

 

I thank you for your reply, there is something I would like to mention, I purchased a new Control box in March from electro-skate.co.uk, surely they would have sent the most up to date control box they had, it cost me £85.00, plus 1pence shipping :thumbsup:

 

I am confused now?

 

Hi Andrew12,

 

I have also just emailed Andrew at electro-skate.co.uk, to see of they can give any clarifcation on the control box they sent to me. SS

Edited by SilverSony
updated info

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Hi, you cannot just purchase the Mark 3 control panel you would have to upgrade your remote gun as well as they are not compatible. :peace:

 

Hello Andrew12,

 

I was cycling to my partners house and I initiated a call from Andrew(electro-skate) and he explained to me that they did send me the control box which would work with my current gun controller, I had sent him the reply you posted, and that was why he called me (good customer service) he told me that because I had only bought the control box in March, he will send me an updated control box to match my existing gun controller at no cost £££ to myself. I thanked him for his call and he said I just have to wait for the unit to get to me. And fit it, so hopefully I am going to get this sorted out.

 

I appreciate your help/support Andrew12 :-) :peace::peace::peace:

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Hi Andrew12,

 

I thank you for your reply, there is something I would like to mention, I purchased a new Control box in March from electro-skate.co.uk, surely they would have sent the most up to date control box they had, it cost me £85.00, plus 1pence shipping :thumbsup:

 

I am confused now?

 

Hi Andrew12,

 

I have also just emailed Andrew at electro-skate.co.uk, to see of they can give any clarifcation on the control box they sent to me. SS

 

Hello Andrew12,

 

Had a glitch on a page and could not preview/post my reply.

 

I received your message about the incompatibility issue between my control box and gun controller????

 

So here is the reply below. SS

 

Hello Andrew12,

 

I was cycling to my partners house and I initiated a call from Andrew(electro-skate) and he explained to me that they did send me the control box which would work with my current gun controller, I had sent him the reply you posted, and that was why he called me (good customer service) he told me that because I had only bought the control box in March, he will send me an updated control box to match my existing gun controller at no cost £££ to myself. I thanked him for his call and he said I just have to wait for the unit to get to me. And fit it, so hopefully I am going to get this sorted out.

 

I appreciate your help/support Andrew12 :-) :peace::peace::peace:

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Hi SilverSony,

 

you are a funny guy! :devil: :D :thumbsup:

 

Andrew12 IS Andrew from ES.. ;) (I thought I wrote that earlier before.. mhmm, maybe only mentioned that he appears there in the forum, too, not his name.)

 

I don't know about the older versions of the controller/controller mainboard, so I cannot tell you much about those, sorry.

 

About the wheel kit from rokit science: Those look nice, they're useful, too, because you can switch the wheel and attach the drive wheel cog to everyone of them. But is the drive wheel cog made out of plastic or metal there? I cannot recognize it exactly, looks more like plastic.

 

About them fitting your board: Thats something I cannot answer without having the measurements of both the new and old wheel / cog and the type of belt used (there are different belt forms and teeth forms, so they are not always interchangeable).

 

What you can do: Dismount the wheel of your ES 600 and measure the broad, height, depth of the wheel itself and the inner hole diameter of the bearings (there should be some, for sure). Then measure the length of the axis (usual one, not drive wheel one) and the thickness, to verify the fitting space.

 

If rokit science send you the measurements of the wheels in the wheel kit you can at least see, if they fit on the 3 wheels without drive wheel cog, easily (depth, do they touch the board, do they have the right diameter for the axis and such).

 

Maybe Andrew can tell you about compatible wheels, as well, I am not the manufacturer of those parts so I can only tell you from first hand, what I have here to measure it out. :D:P

 

I'll still write Beetle about the drive wheel cog, so he contacts you either here or per PN, just need to find time to write.. :thumbsup:

 

So if the noise problem is solved with a new wheel/drivewheel cog and the controller problem (I didnt notice this? Did you write about it?) is solved thanks to Andrew, the board should work fine again. :peace:

 

If you have any more questions, just ask, I'll try to help if I can.

 

Regards,

 

Wolf

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Hi SilverSony,

 

you are a funny guy! :devil: :D :thumbsup:

 

Andrew12 IS Andrew from ES.. ;) (I thought I wrote that earlier before.. mhmm, maybe only mentioned that he appears there in the forum, too, not his name.)

 

I don't know about the older versions of the controller/controller mainboard, so I cannot tell you much about those, sorry.

 

About the wheel kit from rokit science: Those look nice, they're useful, too, because you can switch the wheel and attach the drive wheel cog to everyone of them. But is the drive wheel cog made out of plastic or metal there? I cannot recognize it exactly, looks more like plastic.

 

About them fitting your board: Thats something I cannot answer without having the measurements of both the new and old wheel / cog and the type of belt used (there are different belt forms and teeth forms, so they are not always interchangeable).

 

What you can do: Dismount the wheel of your ES 600 and measure the broad, height, depth of the wheel itself and the inner hole diameter of the bearings (there should be some, for sure). Then measure the length of the axis (usual one, not drive wheel one) and the thickness, to verify the fitting space.

 

If rokit science send you the measurements of the wheels in the wheel kit you can at least see, if they fit on the 3 wheels without drive wheel cog, easily (depth, do they touch the board, do they have the right diameter for the axis and such).

 

Maybe Andrew can tell you about compatible wheels, as well, I am not the manufacturer of those parts so I can only tell you from first hand, what I have here to measure it out. :D:P

 

I'll still write Beetle about the drive wheel cog, so he contacts you either here or per PN, just need to find time to write.. :thumbsup:

 

So if the noise problem is solved with a new wheel/drivewheel cog and the controller problem (I didnt notice this? Did you write about it?) is solved thanks to Andrew, the board should work fine again. :peace:

 

If you have any more questions, just ask, I'll try to help if I can.

 

Regards,

 

Wolf

 

Hi Wolf,

 

It would seem I am a funny guy, but Andrew has always been helpful with his advice when ever I have asked him anything and I know he stands behind his boards one hundred per cent, but now things are going to get better thanks to everyone who has helped me so far. I also like how you work Wolf, you certainly know your stuff, I shall do as you have asked and I shall also email rokitscience again just for a confirmation about thickness of the wheels they say as compatible, but I need to height and depth of the wheels and of course the measurements of the middle thin piece that goes through the wheel itself and measure my axel from my board.

 

MY ES-Sport wheel dimensions are:

 

Height 10cm

Width 7and a half cm

Depth 3cm

tube 3cm

Thickness of axel 3 and a half cm

 

Does this sound about right Wolf, ha ha ha :peace::peace::peace:

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