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Evolve Skateboards

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  1. Hey Mate,

     

    Only just seen this thread (haven't been on here for sometime) and noticed no one has replied to you on this. Sounds like the spacers here are your best option, depending on the axle size you could try using some standard bearing spacers from a longboard shop, these may work ok. Hopefully you get a hold of the supplier. Otherwise, try an evolve board as we have a very good team of passionate people working for the brand.

     

    Anyway, as long as your riding then all good!

     

    Thanks

  2. well....you get what you pay for! Urethane is crucial on these boards like all professional longboarding. Having the right formula also helps to produce the best range out of the batteries. And being able to customise the ride is also a great opportunity, you can do this with our trucks also. If you are going to make something for yourself why would you compromise?? By wanting to know our number of teeth will not give you the same performance, this is also determined by the battery, motor specs and electrical parameter. Trial and error will give you what you need here. The test riding will be the fun part :)

  3. The interchangeable drive gears we use are made from POM which is a material designed for gears, its not just a plastic composite. We still have had no cases of any wear on these as of yet. I used to use aluminum drive gears (same design) but these were louder than the POM gears and a fraction heavier. This is also the same case with the belts we use, we have never had a single belt break, actually they get better with age as they soften up and makes for a quieter ride as you wear it in. When you compare the belts of other eboards they are much louder and often need replacing. I have trailed many different company belts before and even the same company belt but made in a different country, the result was the UK and USA belts proved much quieter. Many people have no idea how important the belt is to the whole performance of the board.

  4. Hey Jens

     

    Yes this is true, if you start at the bottom of the hill will no momentum then go up the hill the board will struggle. If you approach the hill with momentum it will perform well as long as its not too steep and the rider is not too heavy. I weigh 82kgs and it does hills for me just fine, if the rider was say over 95kgs it will have less torque for these hills. The drive gear used for our boards are small in diameter and are a good match for best performance, if a larger diameter gear was used for the drive wheel then hills would be easier and top speed would reduce.

     

    Happy boarding

    Jeff

  5. I totally agree with Chrizz. The boards are most fun cruising 15-20km's/hr, at this speed you can still hook in snowboard/longboard style carves. When I ride (which is everyday) I never hit full throttle, I do however like to give it a little squirt then just roll like a normal longboard and control speed through carving (as this is what it is all about - not riding in a straight line!). I think its best to ride only as fast as you can run also :) Electric skateboards are very safe if ridden responsibly, but will be unforgiving if not treated with respect.

  6. Our board can ride hills no problems. Please see the video link below. However like I told wolf, the board has not been designed as an up hill rider otherwise I would have a larger brushless motor and a bigger battery, this is not the direction I wish to go, heavier boards are a thing of the past as you will see in the coming years. During your session if you come across some hills it will eat them up, but constant hill riding is no good for the board and protection modes may kick in if ridden like this.

     

    If you have a really hilly area maybe you should get a much larger heavier board with bigger motor. I am just telling the facts, nothing else.

     

  7. Hey there!

     

    Had trouble translating all of this (obviously haha) but from this pics those lithium cells look as though they are about to explode! Is this a new battery or an old one?

     

    I haven't tried this yet with any of my boards (because batteries cost a lot!!) but I guess if uncared for like left in the hot sun or left in a car in the hot sun this may happen.

     

    I guess you should recycle them wolf.

     

    Jeff :thumbsup:

  8. We have just launched, our first batch is now in countries such as Australia, norway, switzerland, germany, UK, Canada, USA, Singapore, Serbia......feedback has been excellent...check our Facebook page https://www.facebook.com/EvolveSkateboards and our testimonials on our website.

     

    We sold out pretty quickly and new parts arriving early september and assembly will start then.

     

    The board is all about carving, it does about 37kms'hr, can do hills also (see testing video) but its all carving and performance. If I want a board solely to smash hills I would put a big motor on it, but then it would go like a bat out of hell and some idiot would kill themselves. Our new brushless controller/motor are excellent along with my remote design. If you have bad roads and lots of hills I would recommend the big boards you already ride. If you are into longboarding/surfing/snowboarding then this board is for you as its really a longboard skateboard and we use professional racing wheels.

  9. Hey Wolf

     

    Man, don't take it personally, my opinions are not meant for this.

     

    What would you prefer:

     

    1. An off-road board with good power and battery capacity that weighs 35kgs or

     

    2. An off-road board same power etc that weighs 15kgs lighter with same performance?

     

    I think the answer is pretty clear, and this is the direction I believe this whole industry should be going. Please don't take it personally mate, this is just my opinion here. I think the off-roader's should go this way as well as the street boards. But this is just my opinion, I am not always right :)

     

    As for the evolve board, this board has been designed purely for the love of carving and snowboarding, its a carving weapon! Its not designed to smash constant steep hills otherwise I would of used a massive motor, then it would be illegal here in OZ. I designed it for what I love - just the same as what you are doing.....where are you up to on this anyway? Have you seen this board http://www.gnarboards.com/ ? This guy Josh has designed something that you may like....be sure to wear battle armor though :)

     

    Mate, we are 2 worlds apart but share similar interests, its cool we can throw ideas/opinions etc from across the other side of the world.

  10. Wolf,

     

    Firstly, you always have to carry the boards around, from your house to your car, from your car to your ride, from your ride to your car and then again back to your house. Every time you have to move the thing it will be a hassle. So moving 40kgs is a backbreaker, especially when you breakdown or run out of juice - unless you just stick to a small area or only ride from your house.

     

    Really, riding longer than an hour your legs get sore and your toes go numb, so making your battery go for 1.5 - 2 hours is plenty. Having a board that is light and still having the off-road capabilities far out weighs (hahah) having a board that weighs a ton. You know you can make it lighter wolf without compromising too much on the battery/motor etc. Those wheels / truck setup etc are your biggest problem. Focus on a unique setup and make it smaller/lighter and more performance driven instead of using what all the others use. Once you've stripped kg's off this setup your board will go faster and will need to work less to actually move the thing! Then start to refine your electrics. I have just designed a new wheel, its all terrain with tyres and interchangeable enabling the board to ride on concrete, grass dirt etc BUT not full off-road. I want the board to be able to go off the footpath, through the tree's on the dirt then back to the path again (just like snowboarding). Its still in prototype though, we'll get there soon!

     

    Mate, seriously, longboarding is the closest thing to snowboarding! Maybe you haven't ridden a proper setup or carved a good longboard down a hill before! Longboarding is closer to snowboarding than surfing is, but yes, its not the same. Longboarding however uses a very similar technique especially on the right board and is a fantastic cross trainer for both surfing and snowboarding. There are many different trucks out there that enable the surfing/snowboard feeling. Being able to pump your trucks to gain speed without pushing is pretty sick, and being able to do it with an electrical setup, well this is something else.

     

    I have been snowboarding for years, finding the right longboard with awesome trucks/racing wheels then pimping it with a motor is the closest thing to snowboarding, but on concrete. This is very different to electric skateboarding even knowing its electric - with me here?? Maybe not.

     

    The future for electric skateboarding (street or off-road) should be heading in the direction of making the setup as small and light as possible - not the other way! But this is just my opinion, I am not always right.

  11. Unfortunately 98% of electric skateboards are just that - electric skateboards. They are no way anything like a normal longboard skateboard as they do not share any industry standard professional parts such as wheels, decks, bearings (basically the whole skateboard). There is a big gap in the market here. I believe I have filled this now. http://www.evolveskateboards.com.au We specialize in longboards and electric longboards here in Australia, designed and assembled.

     

    You guys modify those big chunky boards, I guess this is fun for you as maybe your road conditions and terrain are not very good where you live and maybe your not into real longboarding or any form of carving as such. The direction you guys are heading is really nothing to do with skateboarding/carving/surfing/snowboarding/longboarding but more so off-road 4 wheel driving (like a car). I think what your doing is cool with the modifications to those run of the mill boards. I think you should really take it further, and design your own board - not just modify. An off-road board that is light (this is a must!!), can actually turn within a street, and is high-performance. I have ridden plenty of the off-roaders here in OZ and these are just my thoughts. You need to focus more so on the deck, truck wheel setup......the make your motor/battery setup smaller lighter. The electric mountain boards (i see there are a few out there) is the direction you should be heading. If you can make it smaller, lighter but still keeping the off-road capabilities as to what your playing with, then your on a winner. But, as you know, prototyping and the machine costs will be extremely high. But if your passionate enough and a little crazy you will be able to do it!

  12. Yeah nice work man, looks sick! I know there's a company in the US that supply's decks with built in LED's, is this one of theirs or did you do it yourself? I bet you turn some heads at night with that thing, NASA may get some calls with sightings of small alien space craft's with bright lights!

     

    I used to use the ES battery/controller on the Sector 9 Rincon (5 ply) and others with concave decks with flex etc, didn't really find it a problem installing with concave decks. But just need to be careful with the amount of flex in the deck as the battery box can break away from the controller.

  13. Customize your setup with top shelf wheel brands. Using these products has many advantages in performance, feel/ride and looks. Just by using the Abec 11's can add up to 25-30% battery life per charge. All of these wheels has its own characteristics and advantages. Using quality parts is a must when it comes to electric longboarding and having a choice is even better!

     

    All our molds are now finished and these boards will be available late June sometime.

     

  14. Drakarn, what trucks are you going to replace with? And you know you will have to machine them back and work out a way to put the motor housing on them. And wheels, means you will need a new drive gear. Then you will also need the right size belt, you are opening an expensive can of worms. But a fun can of worms :)

  15. What about Chris (abec 11)? no apology? Wow, you have been saying you have abec's for a couple of years now on your website, thats a long time to make an oversight??

     

    Andrew, all i was trying to tell you was Abec 11 is made in USA not China so if it was your supplier you could go back to them and straighten this out. Instead I received an abusive message threatening to throw me off the forum for telling only facts.

     

    Electric skateboarding has an exciting future ahead, its better everyone is truthful about their product so the industry is not tarnished.

     

    And Dave 12........seriously man, you have missed the point big-time!

  16. Hey Chris (Abec 11)

     

    I have been using your 83mm and 76mm fly wheels both 75a on my electric boards for some time now. They are so quiet, smooth and free rolling. I also use the sector 9 race formulas 81mm and 76mm, but the 83mm fly is the pick for ultimateness! Well done Chris! And to the rest of your company.

     

    The issue you've raised has been discussed here a few times now - glad you've had your say for those who had question marks.

     

    Electric skateboarding is a great up and coming industry with so much more to offer in the years coming. How are your electric hamboards going? :)

     

    In regards to using Abec 11's on electric skateboards and still being able to rotate them, please check out our recent blog post from just the other day - http://evolveskateboards.com.au/blogs/news/5951551-more-on-using-abec-11-wheels-with-our-electric-skateboards

     

    Jeff

  17. haha, sorry for my aussie slang! Mineral Turpentine is turps. Take off the bearing cover, leaving the bearings still in the case, then soak them in the turps for a while, then take them out, dry them off, put 1-2 drops of speed cream in (no more BTW) and put the bearing cover back on. That should do the trick.

     

    How's your new board?

     

    Thanks

    Jeff

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