SilverSony

Hi SilverSony,

 

again sorry for my late answer! I've read your posting just at the same day you posted it, but had no time to answer.

 

And forgot it until now, just remembered it because I thought about my order at Andrew.

 

I'll try to answer your questions:

 

There is usually a reset / resync button on BOTH the remote AND the board.

 

On the board it's a hole near the Power LED / Power Button (just a little hole without further description as far as I remember).

 

Maybe you should try to press both of those buttons once with power off, then with power on, this -should- solve syncing problems as far as the controller and remote are compatible.

 

About the drive bracket, I cannot follow you fully through your explaination - you mean, the bracket / box where the cogs and belt is inside, has touched the belt/cogs? And grinded down?

 

That's mostly because the box isn't centered, but you mentioned earlier, that you cannot move the box much, even if you unscrew the mounting screws loose.

 

Hmm.. Can you probably make a photo of the position that seems to create the problem in your opinion?

 

 

 

Yes, that sounds true. So the place where the bearing has to be inserted in the wheel (Rokit Science Wheels, thats it) needs to be 26mm diameter as well. The thickness and compatibility of the drive wheel itself is another story, but if you have the possibility to test out the Rokit Science Wheels, its probably the easiest way to see if they fit without bigger modifications on the wheels or axis.

 

The offer from Rokit Science doesn't sound bad, if you don't have high postage prices for shipping from or to them.

 

Much regards,

 

Wolf

Hello Wolf,

I thank you for your info whether late or not.

I have just been having a look for a reset hold on my board as you seem to think, but on the ES-Sport(600) there is no reset hold anywhere near the led light. Maybe this was installed on the 800 watt board that you have maybe.

But I had a discussion with Andrew at electroskate the other day and I asked him if he had received the bracket from my ES-Sport(600), as I sent it to him so that he could inspect it, he told me that yes he had received the bracket, and it was badly damaged, he told me that they are waiting for new stock of the brackets to be delivered to the warehouse, I also then told him that I could not link both the ES-Sport(600) and the gun controller together, though I went through the usual procedure of turning the remote on, and then using a pin , push it into the reset hole and press it until I get a flashing green light and then turning on the board, you should get three or four beeps, indicating that they are both linked/coded, and then you press the reset button once, and they are coded. But I told Andrew I am getting nowhere with this procedure. Andrew is thinking that the fault ,may lie with the controller itself, and has stated to me that I shall have to purchase a new gun controller (£55.00) and a new bracket(£17.00) and he will send me FREE OF CHARGE another mark 3 control box, and everything should be fine and well, and my board should be up and running, so I have to wait until near the end of the month for the brackets he said, so I need to be patient and wait. There is no good me ordering the stuff yet, as Andrew stated to me that he will send it all together to save on packing and postage. Hope this clears somethings up for you Wolf.

I also have my new electric skateboard the eight ball big daddy, this is so brilliant, although there are distinct differences between the two boards, but I must say that I am so impressed with the big daddy eightball board, it is a very good board and though it is bigger in dimensions it is incredible and very easy to master. This is the lead acid battery version and it is quite heavy(35kg) but it is a very stable and a very comfortable ride indeed. One thing I do miss terribly with this board is the reverse function that I had on my ES-Sport(600) but then again it is a totally different board. The braking system is different as well, and though I have mastered it now, the ES-Sport(600) braking system is fantastic, and very easy to control, but with the big daddy it is a little more difficult and the brakes on the big daddy are regenerative braking /motor braking, and not ABS like on the ES-Sport(600).

To be honest I love this board, i have tested it out on most surfaces, and the board itself has had no problems at all, it is a great board. I also love the chunky tires, they are great and go over anything in their path, an ultimate board to ride, I have realised though you have to a bigger radius for turning and it can be tricky but it is handled better the more you test the board out, though I have not gone too far from home on the board as of yet because the range is a lot less than my ES-Sport(600) obviously as lead acid is heavier. So the range is shortened. Though the price equivalent of this board is £799.00 from eightball boards?? That is a lot of money but to be fair I am happy now with what I have.

Sorry to ramble on, but I LOVEEEEEEEEE this board, cheers for now Wolf.:peace::peace::peace:

ps Wolf I forgot to tell you I have been in contact with Abby at rokitscience, and he is sending me a second hand slick wheel to my address, I have paid him £5.00 and he is sending it to my house, and then I will know for sure if the wheels fit my ES-Sport(600). And then I will order a set of four. This will also assist others in knowing this info as well.

I will also use my ES-Sport(600) as a back up electric skateboard, or one I could lend my friends if I go to Round Hay Park???

Hi SilverSony,

 

good thing that the parts arrived! :thumbsup:

 

About the pairing of controller and remote control: Good question, did it always more or less without my help, the pairing process.

 

Did you try turning them on switched? Means, first the board, press the reset button or don't and then switch on the remote control?

 

I am not sure if the remote control has a reset switch, too. Thought so, there should be a little hole below the LED on the remote control with a microswitch inside, but not sure, just read about that somewhere.

 

Regards,

 

Wolf

Hi Wolf,

I have gone through the pairing process as explained many times, firstly as you also state just below the flashing green light, there is a small microswitch, now you use a needle and press it once to get a green light, another press gives it a flashing green light, this is the pairing sequence light, then you turn on the board itself, and you should immediately hear three or four beeps or something like that, and then you again press the tiny microswitch once, and that should be the end of the process. The board and the controller should be paired. However I am going through the correct sequence, but I am failing to get the initial beeping sound for the pairing process.

I called Andrew yesterday regarding my drive bracket and how, I think the bracket itself is causing the problems with the teeth on both the cog and the belt, there has been a couple of occasions I have had to go up or down a kerb, in a sense this has caused the underneath part of the bracket to be ground down by the rough edges so to speak, and in a sense, this has also caused the bottom area to have like a squared edge so the belt is not sitting properly, hence the teeth being broke off the wheel cog. I sent the bracket to Andrew at electro-skate, I remember he mentioned while I was speaking with him, that they are out of stock of the brackets, until after the bank holiday, so they should have them back in on Tuesday/Wednesday. I also sent a short note.

Hope this makes some sense to you Wolf.

Have a look at the following info I received from Abby, at rokitscience

hi stephen

that's fine, you can order 1 x semi-road alloy wheel

if it's compatible you can order the set of 4 & we'll dispatch the other 3 wheels

if it's not compatible you can return it & your money will be refunded minus a small admin fee for processing your order

it's best if you phone me when you want to make your purchase because the online process will charge you for a single wheel & then a set of wheels which would end up being the full cost of 5 wheels

hope to speak soon

What do you think Wolf, regards SS:peace::peace:

Hello Wolf,

 

I see you like to be amused, I know you mean no harm, it's all good, I kind of understand your point regarding wheels and axels. I am learning with each and every answer or post that you reply to me, it is a good point in learning about fitting different wheels to the ES-600 instead of having to always buy them from electro-skate, I don't mean that in a negative way, I like electro-skate and I certainly like their loyalty and help/support that they always give to me. I am sure that most of the other people think the same.

 

I received my new drive wheel and belt today, as well as the new control box that Andrew had promised me, and once again with no surprise Andrew came through and delivered what was promised :peace::peace::peace: :thumbsup:.

 

 

So I shall be having a check of the components received and see where we go from there Wolf.

 

I miss not being able to jump on my board and utilise the freedom that I get when I am riding my board, I use it as an escapism from all the hardships of life.

I keep meaning to upload a video of me and my board going up a serious hill, of course to show others how good the ES-Sport really is.

 

Chow for now Wolf. :thumbsup::thumbsup::thumbsup:

Hello Wolf,

Just a little info I noticed what a poster in the forums, had noted about the ES-600. It states that the es-600 utilises 10x26x8mm Bearings and the axel/axle is 10mm.

Also I began to fit my new items to my board last night and everything was going pretty smooth until I turned the board on, and then I turned on the gun controller, I pushed the little reset switch on the controller until I got the flashing green pairing light, then I turned the board off and then back on again, but there was not the usual little beeping sound you normally get when you pair both the controller and the board???? I am going to ring Andrew at ES, in a minute, just to check I have not done something wrong. Just speaking to Andrew always makes me feel better. Talk soon SS:confused5:

Hi SilverSony,

 

ah, good you got the point. I was just amused, nothing against you. :thumbsup:

 

Hmm, the axis/trucks are 30 mm diameter? I seriously wonder, thats usually Kart-trucks-size but not E-Board-Size..

 

Could it be that the bearings from the wheel are 30 mm outer diameter and 10 or 12 mm inner diameter, so that the 30 mm is the diameter of the bearings on the axis where the wheel slips in?

 

This way the wheel sure has a 30 mm hole but the axis itself is only the metal part that comes out of the magnesium-truck (they're melted together likely).

 

This metal part is important to know, because bearings are there alot but the diameter of the wheels (with bearings, so the diameter of the middle of the bearings) has to fit the diameter of the round steelbar that comes out of the magnesium truck.

 

Hard to explain it in english, hehe.

 

Bearings are there alot of different ones, so as a example if that new wheel set has bearings with a bigger inner diameter, you could probably switch them against others so it fits again, but they need to exist (not every diameter inner/outer/thickness of bearings exists, as I had to experience unfortunately recently :devil: ).

 

Much regards,

 

Wolf

Hello Wolf,

I see you like to be amused, I know you mean no harm, it's all good, I kind of understand your point regarding wheels and axels. I am learning with each and every answer or post that you reply to me, it is a good point in learning about fitting different wheels to the ES-600 instead of having to always buy them from electro-skate, I don't mean that in a negative way, I like electro-skate and I certainly like their loyalty and help/support that they always give to me. I am sure that most of the other people think the same.

I received my new drive wheel and belt today, as well as the new control box that Andrew had promised me, and once again with no surprise Andrew came through and delivered what was promised :peace::peace::peace: :thumbsup:.

So I shall be having a check of the components received and see where we go from there Wolf.

I miss not being able to jump on my board and utilise the freedom that I get when I am riding my board, I use it as an escapism from all the hardships of life.

I keep meaning to upload a video of me and my board going up a serious hill, of course to show others how good the ES-Sport really is.

Chow for now Wolf. :thumbsup::thumbsup::thumbsup:

Hi SilverSony,

 

yea, Andrew is a very nice guy, he helped me recently, as I asked to order some parts, too.

 

But I am not sure, that you understood what I wanted to say:

 

 

 

Andrew12 here in the forum is Andrew from ES, so you basically posted him his own answer.. :peace:

 

It might be that you know this already but it sounds a bit as if you think they're two different people.

 

Maybe I just misunderstood your posting totally, I don't know. :confused5:

 

About the measurements: I'll check if theres some measurement-table from rokit science available on their website, but not now, its 3:00 am nearly.. Will do that later on the day.

 

I am not sure what you mean with "Thickness of axel 3 and a half cm" - the axis is 3 cm thick? The round part of it? That would be weird, the axis of my ES 800 is only 12 mm thick (the part where you mount the wheel with the bearings on).

 

Regards,

 

Wolf

Hi Wolf,

I now know and very aware that Andrew12 is ANDREW from electro-skate.co.uk. :peace::peace::peace:

And I made a mistake by sending him his own message, it is easily done, I am not perfect and this is called a learning curve.

I am awaiting a reply email from rokitscience regarding the link they sent to me for wheel sizes.

With my ES-Sports 600 I meant the axel part that the whole wheel slides on is 3cm thick, it will be the same on both of the trucks.

Plus I emailed Andrew about does he know another source for compatible wheels, so I shall await his reply, don't think there is anything else I need mention, still waiting for drive wheel and belt to arrive:(

Chow for now and thanks for any corrections. SS

Hi SilverSony,

 

you are a funny guy! :devil: :thumbsup:

 

Andrew12 IS Andrew from ES.. (I thought I wrote that earlier before.. mhmm, maybe only mentioned that he appears there in the forum, too, not his name.)

 

I don't know about the older versions of the controller/controller mainboard, so I cannot tell you much about those, sorry.

 

About the wheel kit from rokit science: Those look nice, they're useful, too, because you can switch the wheel and attach the drive wheel cog to everyone of them. But is the drive wheel cog made out of plastic or metal there? I cannot recognize it exactly, looks more like plastic.

 

About them fitting your board: Thats something I cannot answer without having the measurements of both the new and old wheel / cog and the type of belt used (there are different belt forms and teeth forms, so they are not always interchangeable).

 

What you can do: Dismount the wheel of your ES 600 and measure the broad, height, depth of the wheel itself and the inner hole diameter of the bearings (there should be some, for sure). Then measure the length of the axis (usual one, not drive wheel one) and the thickness, to verify the fitting space.

 

If rokit science send you the measurements of the wheels in the wheel kit you can at least see, if they fit on the 3 wheels without drive wheel cog, easily (depth, do they touch the board, do they have the right diameter for the axis and such).

 

Maybe Andrew can tell you about compatible wheels, as well, I am not the manufacturer of those parts so I can only tell you from first hand, what I have here to measure it out.

 

I'll still write Beetle about the drive wheel cog, so he contacts you either here or per PN, just need to find time to write.. :thumbsup:

 

So if the noise problem is solved with a new wheel/drivewheel cog and the controller problem (I didnt notice this? Did you write about it?) is solved thanks to Andrew, the board should work fine again. :peace:

 

If you have any more questions, just ask, I'll try to help if I can.

 

Regards,

 

Wolf

Hi Wolf,

It would seem I am a funny guy, but Andrew has always been helpful with his advice when ever I have asked him anything and I know he stands behind his boards one hundred per cent, but now things are going to get better thanks to everyone who has helped me so far. I also like how you work Wolf, you certainly know your stuff, I shall do as you have asked and I shall also email rokitscience again just for a confirmation about thickness of the wheels they say as compatible, but I need to height and depth of the wheels and of course the measurements of the middle thin piece that goes through the wheel itself and measure my axel from my board.

MY ES-Sport wheel dimensions are:

Height 10cm

Width 7and a half cm

Depth 3cm

tube 3cm

Thickness of axel 3 and a half cm

Does this sound about right Wolf, ha ha ha :peace::peace::peace:

Hi Andrew12,

 

I thank you for your reply, there is something I would like to mention, I purchased a new Control box in March from electro-skate.co.uk, surely they would have sent the most up to date control box they had, it cost me £85.00, plus 1pence shipping :thumbsup:

 

I am confused now?

 

Hi Andrew12,

 

I have also just emailed Andrew at electro-skate.co.uk, to see of they can give any clarifcation on the control box they sent to me. SS

Hello Andrew12,

Had a glitch on a page and could not preview/post my reply.

I received your message about the incompatibility issue between my control box and gun controller????

So here is the reply below. SS

Hello Andrew12,

I was cycling to my partners house and I initiated a call from Andrew(electro-skate) and he explained to me that they did send me the control box which would work with my current gun controller, I had sent him the reply you posted, and that was why he called me (good customer service) he told me that because I had only bought the control box in March, he will send me an updated control box to match my existing gun controller at no cost £££ to myself. I thanked him for his call and he said I just have to wait for the unit to get to me. And fit it, so hopefully I am going to get this sorted out.

I appreciate your help/support Andrew12 :-) :peace::peace::peace:

Hi, you cannot just purchase the Mark 3 control panel you would have to upgrade your remote gun as well as they are not compatible. :peace:

Hello Andrew12,

I was cycling to my partners house and I initiated a call from Andrew(electro-skate) and he explained to me that they did send me the control box which would work with my current gun controller, I had sent him the reply you posted, and that was why he called me (good customer service) he told me that because I had only bought the control box in March, he will send me an updated control box to match my existing gun controller at no cost £££ to myself. I thanked him for his call and he said I just have to wait for the unit to get to me. And fit it, so hopefully I am going to get this sorted out.

I appreciate your help/support Andrew12 :-) :peace::peace::peace:

Hi, just checked your video you don't have the Mark 3 control box you have old C box the c box is the fault losing signal. :peace:

Hi Andrew12,

I thank you for your reply, there is something I would like to mention, I purchased a new Control box in March from electro-skate.co.uk, surely they would have sent the most up to date control box they had, it cost me £85.00, plus 1pence shipping :thumbsup:

I am confused now?

Hi Andrew12,

I have also just emailed Andrew at electro-skate.co.uk, to see of they can give any clarifcation on the control box they sent to me. SS

Hi SilverSony,

 

sorry for my late answer, I am a bit busy those days (running in circles.. :devil: ).

 

The belt tension on the ES 800 is adjustable, but not that much, too (only as much as the screw holes allow the movement of the parts, mostly).

 

But usually the belt fits pretty neat, so even a slight move changes the tension alot. If I would move one side just one millimeter, the belt would've too much tension (or too less), so even small changes can affect alot.

 

Some users will read this but not answer, because as for me I'm german so I barely look in the english part of the forum (mostly only if there is a new answer awaiting..).

 

I'll ask Beetle to contact you or post a answer there.

 

I am not sure about the ES 600 wheels, but the (standard) ES 800/Mobo 800 and such wheels are interchangeable from what I've heard.

 

Regards,

 

Wolf

Hi Wolf,

Thanks for your reply, that is great news, my new drive wheel and belt have still not arrived as of yet, I received a reply from rokitscience regarding their semi track skateboard wheels and they believe that they will be compatible with my board, Apparently the they sell the wheels, and also if you buy them, they can each be used as a drive wheel, so you get four times as much use out of each wheel. However four of these semi wheels cost £91.00 gbp.

Could you please check the link and tell me what you think about these wheels Wolf, and if they are worth buying????? :thumbsup::thumbsup::thumbsup:

Wolf, below is a copy of the mail they sent back to me.

hi stephen

thanks for your enquiry

we have stock of semi-off road alloy wheels

please use link: http://www.rokitscience.co.uk/online_store/electric_skateboard_alloy_wheel_semioff_road.cfm

i believe they're compatable with elektro skate boards

they are made from a hard wearing tough solid rubber compound

a set of 4 includes a drive cog which can be removed & inserted into each individual wheel converting each one into a drive wheel, so a set of wheels lasts 4 times as long

hope this helps

kind rgs

abby.

Hi,

 

just saw that you posted a update (and I wrote my fingers wound.. lol :devil: ).

 

Yea, that will probably be the reason for the sound/torque problem. The plastic cog isn't as stable as the aluminium cog or the drive belt I guess, so it will wear down first.

 

Beetle here in the forum has changed its drive wheel cog against an aluminium version which he bought "pure" and modified it over a friend to fit the wheel.

 

He might be able to tell you where he bought it from and what steps are neccessary to fit it, that wheel will last alot longer then the plastic part.

 

I only have the ES 800 board but like I said I don't leave much original, its a complete conversion to something coming from my mind. Not as a mass production, just to realize my own ideas about a E-Board.

 

So I cannot suggest you any other board / manufacturer because I don't know their quality. I saw a MoBo 800 in real life which was very nice, too, but there is not much difference about the wear-down and problems with those boards.

 

Main difference is the technic, means brushed vs. brushless, LiFePO4 vs. Lead Acid and such. The outerior and driving itself isnt -that- different.

 

For me the ES-Boards and parts are choice #1 because I like the brushless technic and it makes the modification easier and better for me, but if one buys a board "just to drive it like it comes from the seller" then I cannot tell if one is "much better" than the other, I guess every board has some advantages and disadvantages and every board needs some checks and has some wear-down over time.. no exceptions.

 

Regards,

 

Wolf

Hi Wolf,

The steps you mention at the front of your post, I may be able to make a small adjustment with the placing of the bracket to the back axel. You are truly very informative with your information and now thinking to the question that I asked about different modifications, I realise now that there is more to this idea than I first thought, but hey I am human and have to ask.

Also the Es-800 All track, is the new model and they may have updated it to allow the user (you) to make certain changes according to your preference. Regarding your belt tension and so on.

This is not the case with the ES-600, it is only a minimum slight movement than can be achieved with the placement of the bracket to the rear axel.

Could you have a word with beetle on my behalf or kindly ask him to drop me a line or message regarding the aluminium version of the drive wheel, I wonder wolf are other forum users accessing these posts. :peace:

I hate for waiting for things to be delivered by royal mail, I am so impatient.

I have emailed rokitscience (electric skateboard company) to aks if their wheels and so on will fit the ES-Sports, they can say yes/no simple

Hello Wolf,

Quick update for you, I was just having a look at the drive wheel, and on close inspection I have realised that a few of the plastic teeth, have been torn away or come off on the drive wheel itself, and on the edge of the plastic cog there are quite a few rough parts, where the teeth are missing, this could be the explanation, I am awaiting a new drive wheel and belt, I am hoping that will solve the problem. I find it quite annoying that the board goes without no problems for some time, and then out of the blue things just happen and everything goes wrong. But always a learning curve. :peace:

I tried the steps that you told me about, but did not make any difference, so I put all the four allen screws back into the bracket of the rear axel.

Regards for now. SS

ps Do you only have the one board????? and would you recommend any other electric skateboard company??

Hi

I just wanted to pop my tuppence worth in here for the benefit of everyone that is interested or wondering about the ES-Sport, these board are nice and fast, I have had mine for quite some time now, I travel all over on my board and it has only let me down a couple of times, though that is not really the fault of the board but sometime human error. It is a very nippy board indeed, and of course the bluetooth controller, which by the way is based on the glock gun, is rather responsive indeed, and it is really easy to use and regulate your speed to your own preference, I love everything about this board, however I think there could be many improvements to this board. Having been messaging Wolf, who is a member on here, he is also a very nice guy who is at the moment assisting me with a little problem on my ES-Sport. Anyway back to the board itself, I have not encountered any errors going up any hills either on this board, and where I live in Leeds West Yorkshire, there are some really steep gradient hills, but that is not a problem for the ES-Sport, it eats up the hills, it is also very good on the flat pavements/roads. The only thing you hav to be careful with is the braking!! What I normally do is as I am coming down a big hill/road, I realise how fast I am building speed up and I slowly pull the controller throttle towards me a couple of times, this slows down the board, so you can get better handling.

I hope this helps people who are deciding to buy one of these boards, as they are really good.

Chow for now :peace::peace::peace:

Hi hi,

 

I work with electric boards only since beginning of 2011, so not that long. But I got some experience with electronics from my past life and work.

 

The problem you mentioned about the "stopped" motor which starts spinning after it is turned a bit is pretty normal for DC motors but a bit weird for AC/Brushless motors like you got.

 

Usually its the position where the motor has no contact to the brushes that transfer the power to the "spinning core". But the ES 600 not only should have a brushless motor, but a hall sensor on its end, too. This sensor gives the controller a feedback about the motors spinning/position, so it should be able to start from every position without a problem.

 

But I am not the creator of the components nor do I know how the controller works about the feedback, so it can be a normal thing, too. While driving the board outside this shouldnt affect you, because it is always "moving a bit" and so adjusting the position of the motor, so he should always start itself.

 

So you're saying that the motor itself doesn't do any (weird) noise, but if you put everything back the noise starts again? Humm.. this means that either the bearing in the wheel itself makes the problem or the transmittion with the 2 cogs and the belt. Not much more could've been the reason.

 

You mentioned, that you unscrewed the bracket box from the axis, what about this: Attach the bracket box again but don't screw it too tight, just very loose with 2 of the 4 screws.

 

Now add the wheel and belt and press against the bracket/box in the direction that the belt gets tightened to the cogs.

 

Now let the motor run and drive the wheel in the air while pushing the box with different strength, so you test the noise on multiple tight-levels of the belt.

 

Maybe there's some point, when the noise gets louder or even vanishes, might be that something you can't see from the side where you see the cogs has contact with the bracket/box?

 

Regards,

 

Wolf

 

Edit: What I don't hope: The "stopping" problem MIGHT have to do something with the motor windings or the power part of the controller, hard to describe but if your board uses a brushless motor (what I guess, I don't think there are ES 600 with DC-Motors?!) it has three phases basically, three "feeding" wires. If there's a problem with the controlling part of 1 or 2 of those wires, then in the position of this phase the motor will not react or react weird, because the magnetic field which is generated will not exist on all sides of the spinning part inside.

Hello Wolf,

Firstly, thanks for the detailed explanation, but on my board there is no way you can adjust the tightness of the actual drive belt, that I know of, the two cogs you mention are the drive wheel and the motor cog.

It seems to me like the whole noise/vibration issue happened when I came down that steep hill. I have tried so many different ways to identify the issue, but sometimes it is quite frustrating going backwards and forwards doing the same thing again and again. I love the board, but I also think like you the design and build of the components is rather tacky for the money involved with the ES-Sports (600).

I will try the steps you have mentioned, by putting only two screws into the bracket on the rear axle, and see if this does make any difference to the noise/issue. We can but try, have you made any designs/modifications for your perfect board???? That would be interesting to see.

I shall test some more things on the board.

ps There is no way that I know that the tension can be changed on the ES-Sport 600. It only goes in one way.???? Also is there a way to test the motor windings Wolf.

Hello Wolf,

I have to ask how long have you been interested in e skateboards, I would like to have a simple idea just as yours, waterproof undercarriage and maybe dual drive wheel, and so on, however I am a simple man who just loves to ride the boards. You are very clever in your understanding of my board, and I am myself questioning things about my ES-600. I have just taken off the drive wheel and also the belt, to see if I could start the motor on it's own accord, but having turned on the board and then on the controller, I squeezed the trigger towards myself and there was nothing, so I used to screwdriver (very carefully) to spin the little cog on the motor itself and it began to spin by exerting a little pressure on the gun controller, and then I have realised that putting the belt back in place first, I realised that it does feel a little looser trying to fit it in, and then putting the drive in and putting on the locking nut, and then again trying to get the drive wheel moving properly without that loud noise, but to no avail. Just tried to restart the process again and what is happening is, that I am manually having to partly spin the drive wheel before the controller can initiate the process, and it is intermittent. It should be very responsive indeed.

Hi Wolf,

I am so impressed with some of your information and knowledge, that I have been thinking I should try some other things out myself to try and understand what is going on with my board. Firstly I have took off the drive wheel and also the belt, I then proceeded to take off the clamp/bracket that holds the motor to the rear axle. I have now the motor on its own coming from the back of the main control box, I have had the motor cog going on it's own and every little while I make the spinning stop and make the motor jump into the air slightly and then try the steps again, it would seem that by doing this, everything seems okay, the motor is fine, although at times, I have to spin the little cog to start it again, I am not sure if that means there is something wrong.??? What do you think Wolf?

Hi SilverSony,

 

about the material: The belts I have for my ES 800 seem to be from reinforced rubber of some sort. If I look on the belts from the side (the cut direction basically) then I see some reinforcement strings in the material, as well as if you look on the "teeths" on the inside. Usually for belts of this sort they use glassfiber to reinforce them against snapping or stretching from torque.

 

I am not sure what the belts of the ES 600 are made from but like I said, I don't think "pure rubber" without reinforcement could withstand those torque and powers.. they would stretch permanently and fail.

 

About the micro switches: They are not explained, documented or "known" for usual customers. But one of the both (if I remember correctly, the right one) changes the behavior on braking (alot), it brakes either much harder or much softer overall. The other one seem to have to do something with the timings (on braking/boost), but I didn't check this enough yet.

 

The ES 800 might use the same controller board as the ES 600, if thats the case, you can easily find the microswitches if you unscrew the controller case/box from the deck.

 

But I don't know how if the warranty will void if you change the setting, I just know from my and Beetles board, that the brake setting was different on our controller boards right after delivering (even as the controller version was the same), so it might help some people to change the braking power (not everyone likes the standard setting).

 

I tested the behaviour with my ES 800 laying on the deck while speeding the drive wheel up and brake, at higher speeds it was easy to see that one setting made the brake process much faster (I use kart wheels so they have quite a weight, means its easy to see if they brake faster). At very low speed the difference was neglectable.

 

The wheel/cog on the motor side should be aluminium or magnesium on the ES 600 too, I don't think this cog will wear down quickly.

 

Might be a different story with the drive wheel cog - on the ES 800 its made from metal, too (and ways bigger), while on the ES 600 it should be plastic?! Then it might wear down alot faster. Did you check that drive wheel cog for grinded down counter-"teeths"?

 

Regards,

 

Wolf

Hi Wolf,

Boy you sure know your stuff, you are right the cog wheel on the motor is Aluminium or magnesium, and I have checked it thoroughly I see no visible signs of damage to the cog on the motor. I have to be honest here, wolf, I am not an engineer or electrician of any sort, but I love electric skateboards, the sheer feel of riding them in fantastic and I love them as a mode of transport, but the high price should also mean that I should not have to know/learn electrics to keep my board working. I am thinking of buying the ES-800. I see that you own one of these boards, are they really that good, do you have any bad points to make about the new ES-800????

another point you make wolf, is regarding the micro switches, I do not have them on or should I say in my board. When I open up the battery compartment, I have the usual stuff, ie small circuit board to the front of the lithium battery, and the link wire with the green car fuse, and really that is about it. Of course there is the RED positive wire, and the BLACK negative wire.

I am uploading some more pictures of my board, for you to see. Let me know what you think, I also did a small video, that you could look at and tell me if you know what the noise is, or can you let me know what you think is wrong with my board, I would appreciate it wolf.

Hi SilverSony,

 

could be that the belt itself remained intact, but the aluminium/magnesium(?) belt wheels were grinded down..? Can you see any damage to those?

 

If I remember correctly, the ES 600 has an plastic belt wheel on the driving wheel itself, so I guess this might've grinded down (the belt is usually much stronger than plastic).

 

The belt is some reinforced (maybe glassfiber?) belt so it shouldnt get ruined "that quick", but with the wrong belt tension setting it wears faster or might ruin itself or the belt wheel(s) over time (thats not a problem from ES, its in all machines working with those belts, they all wear down depending on the usage and power transmitted over it)..

 

The "braking" is some pretty powerful thing, heavy load for the belt, imagine your weight / the speed and one belt which tries to slower this movement energy down.

 

On the ES 800 there's a switch (better: 2) on the controller board itself (microswitch, very small), the right switch sets the brake "harder" and "softer" if I remember correctly, it was a while ago that I tested it on my ES 800.

 

Aside from this I suggest you, not to brake too hard, because the brake power is adjusted with the actual speed - means: If you drive faster, the brake will brake harder (not instant) while, if the board is not moving it will brake nearly zero. This is the "anti blocking system", so you don't fall from the board because of a instantbrake.

 

Regards,

 

Wolf

Hi Wolf,

Yet another detailed explanation, I understand where you are coming from, as I stated in the last post, it did brake quite hard trying to achieve a good turn around the corner so to speak, so I amy have caused that to happen. I have just checked the small cog on the motor itself and there appears to be no physical damage to the cog itself, and also on the ES-600 Sport, there is no way that I know of where you can regulate the brake ie hard or soft, what I tend to do is, if in the instance I am going down a big hill after picking up speed I tend to pull the glock gun controller towards me in little bursts and this begins to slow me down quite quickly without causing any juddery movements, if you know what I mean, that is how I maintain stability with the braking system on the board.

By the way the drive belts for the ES-Sport (600) are rubber?

Hi SilverSony,

 

sounds like the belt lost some "teeths", I've read about this in the german part of the forum as well.

 

If you brake too hard, the belt might "slip" and basically grind the teeths down or break them off. Depends on the right belt tension alot, as well - if it is too tight, it might break off the teeths while if it is too lose it might grind itself down from skipping the wheels counterpart to the teeths.

 

Regards,

 

Wolf

Hi Wolf,

I thank you for your detailed response, and yes that sounds correct, however in inspecting the actual rubber drive belt, I could not see any physical damage to the rubber teeth, the only thing I did notice when this actually occured the other day was some small bits of metal stuck into the belt, I obviously pulled them out of the belt. Now exactly sure why this has happened, but as you stated if you brake too hard, things like may occur????

Regards SS

Hello Guys,

I currently own the ES-600 and it is a brilliant piece of kit, however at the moment I seem to be faced with a bit of a problem, I wonder has anyone on this site actually made a repair/walkthrough guide to assist with identifying problems in relation to the ES-600 electric skateboard, at the moment the problem I am having is that when the board was working fine I was coming down a big hill, and had to brake pretty quickly as I was turning the corner, the board made a funny grinding noise, and seemed to be struggling to start up again, I turned it off, and also the controller, and then turned both back on, but standing on the board and slowly pulling the gun controller to myself, the board was a making a juddering noise, and rather it feels like the drive belt is slipping. I called Andrew at electro-skate and he also suggested it sounds like the belt is slipping, I have ordered a new drive wheel and a new drive belt, and I shall fit them when they get here and I am hoping that this will solve the problem. Has anyone else suffered this problem, regards SS

Hi Guy's,

I was wondering, I am aware that sometimes, Andrew from electro-skate appears on this forum, is there any chance that electro-skate could post up some info/workarounds for their boards that they sell, it would be really good if they could manage this as people could follow videos/picturexs to help them help themselves, because I understand myself very well, it is really difficult at times to call them, and I am in the UK and I have tried many amny times to get through, though I realise they are very busy, but sometimes it gets frustrating trying to get hold of someone, emailing them a message is okay, buyt a call is much more personal.

:confused5:

What do you think guy's

Stephen W

ES-600 user :thumbsup:

Hi Mathew,

 

have you tryed to contact Andrew?

Maybe he got some spareparts left?!

Hi there mattewsky,

I actually bought the same board when I first started to get back to skateboarding, however I found the hornet 250 to be too slow, to be honest and soon traded that in for my Electro-Skate Sport ES-600, and if I remember correctly electro-skate sold the spare parts for the hornet 250 on their site, also if I remember they had a bit of a saving on them as they wanted to get rid of the last few of the hornet 250 boards. As they were designing newer models.

They were very fair to me when I traded in my hornet 250, and have always found them to be polite and okay to deal with.

Regards Stephen :thumbsup::thumbsup:

Glad you could see the pictures; Maybe they can be of use some-day.

 

 

Keep it Safe - Dont fall off ! - njoy..

 

Dave. :thumbsup:

Hi Dave,

You never know, little tips and tricks always come in handy, the new motor bracket for my ES-600 boards are £17.00 GBP, that is a lot of money, if you can fix it yourself, that money could be used for other things, like a new drive wheel or a new belt. Regards and keep up the good work :thumbsup:

I shall be putting some pictures on the forum today, with my own make up shoulder strap, for board carrying, when the need arises?????

Chow SS Stephen

Good-day, The Speed Controller is a 1204B Curtis, New these cost alot,I like how strong they are plus Curtis controllers are not resister based as yours is, I am still using the same battery pack for the last 7 years.

 

I use "hand" controls because I have Front Disk Brakes, which are activated by a "Bicycle" brake cable and the Twist Throttle set up is just like using an outboard motor on a Skiff/Boat.

 

Regarding price: If I was to use a resister controller I could sell my designs for $900.00 US Dollars; Since I experienced a "Runaway" I decline to use "less" than the best components.

 

You can reach me at scottwatson42@comcast.net this is also a good way to find my profile on facebook.

 

I have posted pictures on facebook of the damage done in my first crash in 8 Years, "kids" threw a bottle from a moving car,glad I wear a half shell motorcycle helmet; Even so lost control and crashed into a curb at full speed, The Base plate ripped out of 1 inch Marine grade plywood, even so I was able to walk the Board home like a dog on a leash, the Kids where arrested for Felony Vehicular Assault and the car was impounded, A police officer saw the event.

 

As for the Pictures of other designs: They are currently unavailable.

 

My board has twice the power of your 600 and I really Like the Locked Posi-Traction, the only time I lose traction is when TOO MUCH power is applied while going up steep hills this is why I have "Wheelie Bars": Prevents the front from coming off the ground at Full Throttle.

 

Have a great day, Respectfully Scott Watson.

Hi Scott,

I can only say wow, at this precise moment in time, sorry that there are village idiots that plague every place people now live in, but such is life, your board is not only brilliant but cleverly thought through as well, I personally don't think that 900 USD is that expensive really, if it meant getting twice the power output that I am getting with my ES-600, but I myself have come off my board before and broke my left wrist, it was while I was coming down a hill, a cat ran out in front of me, I swerved out of the way for the cat, and went up into the air, the rest is history, but it left a broken wrist. I am very cautious with my board now, and I know that you are aware even 25mph is very fast on a piece of maple wood. I am sure you are aware of the specs for the ES-600.

It is okay regarding the other pictures, also I love the way you controlled your skateboard, I love to slash and weave on my ES-600 it is incredible, and I have become brilliant with the abs braking system, once you master it, it is easy.

I would also love to have a board like yours, just for use as a spare board, perhaps if mine was broken or out of service?? you know how it goes, boys and their toys, have you actually sold any???? :p:p is there a possibility?

have you travelled up a lot of hills, with really steep inclines, up where you are ????

Hi andy, Specs/SITREP, weight 45 pounds, 26 Amp Hour Batteries, 24 volt System, 4.25 inch goodyear compound "slicks" wheels, HELLA Fog light for night riding-24volt halogen bulb, posi-traction, 1 hour 30 minutes to recharge, range 25 miles 3 different gear ratios to choose from HILL-15MPH, CRUISE 25MPH, SPEED 40 MPH. go to utube-frickandfracksicem to watch video, of the 1,500 watt skateboard and the 22,500 watt skateboard.

 

electric skateboard designed by scott/me, machinest-heavy machine operator excavator 600,which weighs 1,000,000 pounds. looked at what was out there and decided to design my own electric Skateboard for the X-GAMES Electric Skateboard GGRAND PRIXX.

hi 4thhorseman,

I just wanna say that is a fantastic video review of the 1,500 watt electric skateboard, though I have to ask you, how much would one expect to pay for such a skateboard, you also stated on one of forum pages, that you had an inventory of around 30 boards I believe, would there be any pictures of these if possible, and are you and your friend thinking of making/selling such skateboards?????

regards SS

My current board is the Electro-Skate Sport ES-600

I reside in the United Kingdom

Hey

I watched the video on youtube, WOW, I have to be truthful, impressive looking piece of kit, my only negative thing for me is the hand controller???

I wonder how much the guy would want to charge for such a souped up skateboard like that????

:thumbsup::thumbsup::thumbsup: